Hi, I'm Mike with Craft Supplies USA and today we're going to turn a Deluxe Pepper Mill.
One of my favorite turning projects is a set of salt and pepper Mills.
They look great on the table and they get used almost everyday.
These Deluxe Mills have long been customer favorites due to their high-qualitycomponents and rugged design.
The pepper mill features a stainless steel grinderand the salt mill uses a non-corrosive ceramic grinder.
The coarseness of the grind can easily be adjusted with a simple twist of the knob at the top of the mill.
In this video, I'll be turning a 12 inch Deluxe Pepper Mill,but the process is the exact same for the salt mill.
For this project, you'll need a mill kit, a blank that's exactly 1 inch longer than the mill shaft,and several sizes of Forstner bits, which we'll list as we go along.
And some standard turning tools and supplies.
Choose a hardwood blank with rich color or figure,but keep in mind some woods like Cocobolo are allergens that might not be the best choice for a mill.
I'm going to be turning mine out of Walnut, let's go to the lathe and have some fun.
Mount your blank between centersand set your lathe speed to around 2,500 RPM.
Now use a spindle roughing gouge to rough the blank to round.
The dimensions on the mill head and the mill body can vary, I'm going to make the mill head about 3 inches.
Lay out the mill head, mill body and the spigot.
Just make sure to mark out a half inch between the head and the body for the spigot,marking the boundaries and labeling the mill body to keep track of grain alignment.
Cut a half inch wide spigot approximately 1-1/8" diameter.
This creates a spigot that will fit into the mill body later.
Now we're going to cut three different tenon's that'll be used for holding the mill at later stages.
Each tenon will be cut with a skew laid on its side.
Cut the first on the headstock end of the mill head, and the other two tenonson each end of the mill body.
Once our tenons are cut, use a narrow parting tool to part and separate themill head and the mill body.
Now we're ready to drill.
This part of the process is tedious, but it's important to be precise.
Start by mounting the top end of the mill body in a chuck,then square the bottom of the blank.
I like to drill on the lathe using a drill chuck to hold the bit in the tailstock.
Drill a 1-5/8" diameter hole a half inch deep.
Mount a 1-1/16" Forstner bit in a drillbit extenderand rill a hole halfway through the mill body.
don't worry about drilling exactly halfway, just get close.
Remove the mill body and turn it around, securing the bottom in the chuck.
Finish drill the 1-1/16" hole from this end, until you've drilled a hole all the way through.
Remove the mill body and mount the mill head in the chuck.
Square the end of the spigot.
Now slowly turn the spigot down,testing the fit with the mill body as you go.
you want a slip-fit that's not too tight or too loose.
Once you get the spigot correctly sized, drill a 9/32" hole completely through the mill head.
Now turn a 1/16" deep recess in the end of the spigot to fit the turn plate.
This will help center the turn plate during final assembly.
Now that we're done turning, it's time to prep for turning.
Mount a 2-3" waste block on the lathe, either on a chuck or a faceplate.
Turn a 1/2" long tenon to fit snugly into the 1-5/8" diameter hole in the mill body.
Make sure to leave a small shoulder around the tenon.
As you go, test fit the size of the tenon until you have a snug fit.
Mount the bottom of the mill body onto the drive tenon, then mount the mill head into themill body and bring up the revolving center for support.
Now for the fun part.
Turn the body to shape, making sure you don't go too thin.
Sand the blank through at least 600 grit.
Now lightly spritz the blank with water to help raise the grainand cut it back with steel wool or Mirlon.
Apply a finish to the mill.
I'll be using Deff Clear Wood Finish cut 50% with lacquer thinner.
It's a durable finish that is close to the grain and easy to maintain.
Now that your blank's turned, it's time for assembly.
Every mill kit comes with a set of instructions that you'll find helpful, because all the parts are labeled.
Find the turn plate and the retainer barand use them to screw holes in the spigot and the mil bottom.
Then use a 1/16" drill bit and pre-drill the holes to a half inch deepLet's assemble the mill.
Now we'll start with the mill head.
Simply screw the tunplate into place.
Once that is secure, thread the rod through the parts in this order.
First the male grinder, then the female,then the spring and finally the spring bar.
Now insert the rod through the mill body,and the mill head and secure it with the adjustment knob.
The last step is to screw the retainer bar into the bottom of the mill.
Before we finish, I'd like to address what to do if you drill too far and the threaded rod extends too far out of the mill head.
Luckily this is an easy fix.
Pull the mill head until it stops and measure the gap between the head and the body.
Disassemble the mill and remove the rod.
Mark that distance on the non-threaded end and use a saw to remove the excess.
Now secure the rod in a vice and use a hammer to gently peen the end back into shape.
Now re-assemble the mill.
Now we have a beautiful turned pepper mill which looks great by itself, or even better as a set with a turned salt mill.
If you liked the video, give it a thumbs up and subscribe to our channel.
Also, be sure to check out www.
com for the largest selection of woodturning supplies in the industry.